A JUNGLE VILLAGE: THEN, NOW, AND FUTURE
William Sleator
I live with my Thai family in a remote village in Thailand near the Cambodian border. When my best friends around here were growing up in the 1960’s and 1970’s, the village was very different. There were only fifty people in the village, which was hacked out of the jungle. Wild boars, elephants, and tigers lived in the jungle. (I know a guy who was chased by a tiger for miles; he’s in great shape.) Because there were so many more trees then, there were also more rivers. There were no telephones, and only one large radio belonging to the richest family in the village. (This was the 1970’s!) Everybody would gather to listen to the news on that one radio. Nobody had cars. They ate animals they killed in the jungle, and fruits and vegetables they grew themselves. The closest market was 20 miles away on a dirt road. They got there in a wooden cart pulled by an ox. It took two days. Riding to the market in that cart was a two day picnic.
The village is very different now. The jungle is almost entirely gone, chopped down to make rice fields and rubber plantations. There are no more wild animals except for an occasional boar, and when somebody finds one, we have a pig feast. The rivers are almost entirely gone; you find water in reservoirs created by dams. There are lots and lots of motorcycles and a few cars on the paved main road.
We bought our land in 1997, and built the first house on the dirt road. Now there are a dozen houses on the road, and it is paved and widened—and when they widened it, they cut down more big old trees.
But we still live much like people did thirty years ago. We grow our own rice, using no pesticides. We grow our own vegetables, and chili peppers (which are an absolute essential in Thai food). We have our own banana and mango trees. In mango season there are too many mangoes for us to eat, so my sister-in-law makes a paste out of the mangoes, spreads it on trays, and dries it in the sun. It is the most delicious mango candy I ever ate. We have our own chickens that run around squawking, (I find them irritating, but they’re delicious), and of course our own eggs. We have a large tank where we farm fish—tiny fish get big enough to eat in three months. The rest of the family relishes eating rats and large fried insects (I don’t), but eating them is better than having them running around the house.
When we bought the land it had been a rice field, but now it is full of trees we planted—our own jungle. The house is surrounded by bougainvilleas that bloom all year round—to get in the front door you have to paw your way through red and yellow
blossoms. We have our own well, which is 120 feet deep; they had to bore through stone to get that far down, but man, that water is clean! We are almost completely self-sufficient, except for electricity and gas. We do have a car, but mostly we use a motorcycle, (wearing helmets!), because it doesn’t use anywhere near as much expensive gas as a car. When I have to go back to the United States, I take the train from the nearest big town, fifty miles away, to the capital city of Bangkok, a six hour trip, where the airport is.
We live this way because it’s cheaper, and because everything we make ourselves is better than what you can buy. But we also just enjoy living like this, and we feel so safe here! If civilization collapsed, we could still go on living here in mostly the same way. And it’s good to know that we are breathing air that has no pollution.
When I first came to Thailand, years ago, I lived for two years in Bangkok. It is one of the most congested and polluted cities in the world. The traffic is so bad that it takes forever to get anywhere. If you’re riding in a taxi, you can get out of the taxi, walk into a store, wait in line to buy a bottle of water, go back outside, and the taxi will still be in the same place, stuck in traffic. Now that we have our house in the village, I can’t stand Bangkok any more. When I come back from America to Thailand, I only stay about a day or so in Bangkok, and rush back to our village.
But the village is changing. There are more houses all the time. Some day there will be factories. Some day there will be traffic and pollution. But because we have our own land and our own farm, we can keep living in the same way forever, no matter what happens around us. And we know we’re not doing anything to damage the climate, or the planet.
BIOGRAPHY
I grew up in a suburb of St. Louis, Missouri, with unconventional parents, (read my book, Oddballs, to find out how weird my childhood was). I went to the public schools there, which were great, because everybody was Jewish.
Then I made the mistake of going to college at Harvard, the most miserable four years of my life—DON’T GO THERE! But I lucked out—my first children’s book got published. Before I could live on the money from writing, I worked as rehearsal pianist for The Boston Ballet, touring with them all over the USA and Europe.
Now I just write, and spend most of my time in Thailand. I look forward to the time when I can live in this village forever, and never go back to the United States at all.
Labels: environment, Thailand, William Sleator, Young Adult Fiction